People have used plants for color for a very long time. Flowers are a popular starting point because they are easy to collect and can be pretty, but they are not all equally good dye sources. Results can be subtle, and colors often shift or fade. This guide covers the basic ideas for fabric, yarn, and paper, with realistic expectations.
What to expect
Natural dyes tend to give softer, earthier colors than synthetic dyes, and the exact shade depends on the plant, the water, the fiber, and the method. Many flower dyes are not very lightfast, meaning they fade over time with light and washing. Treat natural dyeing as experimentation. Keep notes so you can repeat what works.
Flowers that give color
Dye plants named in common beginner guides include:
- Marigolds: Often yield yellows, golds, and oranges, with olive or green shades depending on the method.
- Sulfur cosmos: Known for yellows, oranges, and browns.
- Goldenrod: Commonly used for bright yellows.
- Dyer’s coreopsis: Yellows, oranges, and browns.
- Dyer’s chamomile: Soft yellows.
- Black hollyhock: Subtle blue or purple tones.
- Dried or spent bouquet flowers: Can be experimented with, but cut flowers from florists may have been treated, so use them cautiously and keep the pot dedicated.
Some pretty flowers, such as many pink roses, give little color, so a small test pot is worthwhile. Dried petals from your drying projects can also be tested.
You can also use kitchen scraps for dye, such as onion skins, tea, coffee grounds, and red cabbage, which are common companions to flower dyeing.
Supplies and safety
Gather these before you start:
- A non-reactive stainless steel or enamel pot reserved for dyeing
- A strainer, tongs, wooden spoons, and a bucket for rinsing
- Rubber gloves and, if recommended for your materials, a dust mask
- Fabric, yarn, or paper to dye
- A notebook
Safety notes:
- Do not reuse dye pots and tools for cooking or eating. Dedicated equipment is recommended by dye-garden guides.
- Some plants are toxic or irritating, so never assume a flower is safe because it looks pretty. Research the species and avoid dyeing with plants you cannot identify. Keep dye material out of reach of children and pets.
- Mordants, such as alum, are chemical salts that should be handled according to the label. Wear gloves, avoid breathing powders, and keep them away from children and pets.
- Hot pots and boiling water cause burns, so keep handles turned inward and watch the pot while it heats.
- Work in a ventilated area.
- Pour used dye bath down the drain only if allowed by local guidance and your mordant instructions, and check for any specific disposal instructions on the products you use.
Fibers and preparation
Natural fibers take dye best. Plant-based (cellulose) fibers include cotton, linen, and hemp. Animal (protein) fibers include wool and silk. Synthetic fibers usually take natural dyes poorly.
Preparing the fiber usually has two steps:
- Scouring: Washing to remove oils and finishes so dye can reach the fiber.
- Mordanting: Treating the fiber so the dye bonds better and lasts longer. Alum is commonly used. Protein fibers generally bond with color more easily than cellulose fibers, and cellulose often needs extra treatment, such as soy milk in some methods.
Follow the instructions of a trusted dye supplier for amounts and timing, since too much mordant can harm the fiber or the environment.
Basic dye steps
A simple approach used in beginner guides:
- Extract the color. Combine plant material with water in roughly three parts water to one part plant, as a starting point, and heat gently. Many guides suggest a gentle simmer for around 15 to 45 minutes and avoiding hard boiling, which can dull colors.
- Strain. Remove the plant material.
- Add the fiber. Place wet, prepared fabric or yarn into the warm dye bath and keep it just below a boil. Stir occasionally.
- Wait. Longer soaking usually deepens color. Some people leave fabric to cool in the bath.
- Rinse and dry. Rinse in cool water until it runs clear, then hang to dry out of direct sun.
Bundle dyeing and eco-printing
Bundle dyeing is popular with beginners because it uses fresh or dried flowers directly on fabric.
- Wring out pre-treated fabric and lay it flat. Some methods spray it with white vinegar.
- Arrange flowers and leaves on the cloth.
- Roll or fold the fabric tightly around the plants and tie with twine or rubber bands.
- Steam the bundle for an hour or two, as described in some guides, then let it cool before unwrapping.
Designs vary, since each plant leaves its own imprint. Dyer’s coreopsis, cosmos, and marigold are cited as productive eco-print plants.
Dyeing paper with flower dye
Because this site is about paper, here are some ways to use flower color with paper.
- Soaking: Thick, absorbent paper such as watercolor paper can be soaked in cooled dye or painted with it using a brush. Dye often shows more softly and unevenly on paper than on fabric.
- Eco-printing on paper: Place flowers between pieces of damp absorbent paper and press them. Some pigments transfer, leaving color prints. Results vary.
- Using dye as watercolor or ink: Strong dye extract can be used with a brush. See our guide to making ink from plants.
Natural colors on paper can fade, so avoid displaying finished pieces in direct sun and consider them best for short-term projects, cards, and keepsakes.
Troubleshooting
- Pale color: Use more plant material, steep for longer, or use a stronger mordant (per instructions).
- Muddy color: Overheated dye baths can dull color. Keep the heat gentle.
- Uneven color: Stir or pre-wet fabric thoroughly.
- Fading: Natural dyes often fade. Wash gently and store out of strong light.
FAQ
Do I need a mordant? Often yes for fabric. Paper projects can be done without one, but colors are likely to be less durable.
Can I use flowers from a bouquet? You can, but check whether they could be toxic or chemically treated, and keep the pot dedicated to dyeing.
What are the easiest flowers for beginners? Marigolds and cosmos are frequently recommended.