Real Flower Crafts

How to Make Ink From Plants

Make ink from plants and flower petals at home: which plants work, two simple methods, best paper and pens, how to store it, and safety notes.

On this page
  1. Two meanings of plant ink
  2. What to expect
  3. Plants that can give color
  4. Materials and safety
  5. Method 1: quick petal ink
  6. Method 2: simmered ink with binder
  7. Choose paper and pens
  8. Store and preserve
  9. Ink from trees
  10. Non-toxic and edible ink questions
  11. Troubleshooting
  12. FAQ

Plant-based ink is a gentle, low-cost craft that suits cards, sketches, tags, and short-term stationery. Homemade versions are not like store-bought pen ink. They are usually thinner, softer in color, and prone to fading. That said, they are fun to make and a good way to use up spent flowers, onion skins, or berries.

Two meanings of plant ink

Search results for this topic mix two ideas:

  • Commercial plant-based or soy ink: Printing inks that use vegetable oils such as soybean, linseed, or other plant oils in place of some petroleum-based ingredients. These are used in offset printing and packaging and are not a home craft.
  • Homemade botanical ink: Colored liquid made by simmering or steeping plant material in water, sometimes with a binder and preservative. This is what the rest of this article covers.

What to expect

  • Colors are often subtle and may shift as they dry.
  • Natural inks made from flowers and fruit are generally not lightfast. They tend to fade or change color over time, so they are better for temporary or decorative uses than for documents you want to keep.
  • Homemade ink can grow mold if stored for long, especially without a preservative.

Plants that can give color

Examples mentioned in craft guides:

  • Flowers and petals: Hyacinth, roses, lavender, hibiscus, marigold, daffodil, dandelion, and dahlias. Colors may not match the petals. For example, dark purple dahlias have been reported to give greenish results. Experiment on scrap paper.
  • Fruit and vegetables: Blueberries, red onion skins, avocado skins, and red cabbage.
  • Tree-based materials: Walnut hulls and oak galls are traditional ink sources. See the section on trees below.

Only use plants you can identify, and avoid toxic ones. Many ornamental plants are poisonous if swallowed, and some are irritating to skin. Keep materials and finished inks away from children and pets.

Materials and safety

  • Plant material (dry or fresh, depending on the method)
  • A mortar and pestle or a bowl and spoon
  • Stainless steel or enamel saucepan, or a heatproof bowl, reserved for crafts (not aluminum, and not the pot you cook food in if you are using anything questionable)
  • Fine strainer or a coffee filter and funnel
  • Glass jars with lids
  • Optional: gum arabic as a binder, a little salt and vinegar for color extraction, and a preservative option (for example, a few drops of essential oil used in one guide)
  • Paintbrushes or dip pens

Safety tips:

  • Boiling water and simmering pots can scald. Keep children away from the stove.
  • Vinegar simmered for a long time can smell strong, so ventilate your kitchen.
  • Do not taste or drink homemade ink.
  • Wear gloves if you are using plants that stain, and protect work surfaces.

Method 1: quick petal ink

This simple method suits dried petals and uses little equipment.

  1. Make sure the petals are fully dry. If not, leave them on a paper towel in a warm, dry place, or see our drying guide.
  2. Crush the petals in a mortar or bowl to a fine powder.
  3. Heat a small amount of water until hot and pour just enough over the powder to cover it.
  4. Let it sit for about a day in a warm spot. One tutorial uses a sunny location.
  5. Strain through a coffee filter set in a funnel into a clean jar.

Test the color on scrap paper. If the color is faint, repeat with more petals and less water, or let it steep longer.

Method 2: simmered ink with binder

This method yields deeper color and suits brush or pen work.

  1. Place your plant material (such as fruit skins, onion skins, or flowers) in a saucepan and cover with water.
  2. Some recipes add a small amount of salt and white vinegar, which can help extract and stabilize color, though effects vary.
  3. Bring to a gentle simmer on the lowest heat for at least an hour. Longer cooking often gives deeper color. Do not leave the pot unattended.
  4. Test by dipping a strip of paper and letting it dry.
  5. Strain through a filter into a clean jar.
  6. Add a few drops of gum arabic, which helps the ink flow and adhere to paper. Add more only if the ink is too runny.
  7. Add a preservative if you plan to store it, and close the jar tightly.

Choose paper and pens

Paper has a big effect on how plant ink looks.

  • Thick, absorbent paper: Cotton or watercolor paper takes watery ink well without buckling as much as thin paper. Our guides to the best paper for watercolor and ink and to paper weight and GSM will help you choose.
  • Smooth, thin, or coated paper: Ink can bead or bleed, so test first.
  • Brushes: A fine round brush works well for lettering and drawings.
  • Dip pens: Natural inks can work but are thinner than manufactured ink, so go slowly and do not overload the nib. Clean the nib well afterwards (see the best tools for calligraphy for dip pen basics). Do not use plant ink in fountain pens, since particles and spoilage may clog them.

Test on scrap paper from your project before starting.

Store and preserve

  • Use clean jars and keep ink in a cool, dark place.
  • Homemade ink with no preservative may last only a short time. Discard if it smells off or grows mold.
  • Label with the date and ingredients.

Ink from trees

Yes, ink can come from trees. Two traditional options are walnut hulls and oak galls. Walnut ink is mentioned by calligraphers as comparatively lightfast. Oak gall ink is historic and usually involves iron salts, which can damage paper over time. Walnut hulls can stain skin heavily and can be an allergen for some people, so wear gloves. These are more advanced projects than petal ink, so follow a trusted recipe.

Non-toxic and edible ink questions

  • What ink is non-toxic? Many commercial water-based inks are labeled non-toxic for craft use, and homemade inks from food-safe ingredients are usually lower risk. But “non-toxic” is not the same as “safe to eat”. Labels and testing standards vary, so read the label.
  • Is pen ink drinkable? No. Do not drink pen ink. If someone swallows ink, contact a poison control center or doctor, especially for children.
  • Can I make edible ink? Food-grade colorings are sold for decorating food. Homemade plant ink from craft projects is not intended to be eaten, particularly if made in craft pots or with unidentified plants or binders not meant for food. If you want to decorate food, use edible products labeled for that purpose.

Troubleshooting

  • Faint color: Use more plant material, simmer longer, or try a different plant.
  • Ink beads on paper: Use more absorbent paper or add a little more binder.
  • Ink fades: Expected. Use it for short-term projects, keep finished pieces out of sun.
  • Mold in the jar: Discard and start fresh with a cleaner jar and preservative.

For other uses of petal color, see natural dyeing with flowers. Dried pressed flowers also pair nicely with ink-decorated cards and frames, as in DIY framed flowers.

FAQ

Is plant ink permanent? Usually not. Most flower and fruit inks fade over time.

Can I use any flower? Not every flower gives much color, and some are toxic, so experiment with known safe plants.

Does homemade ink last? Only for a limited time. Store it cool and discard if it smells or grows mold.

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