Drafting Paper for Sewing Patterns

Short answer

For drafting a sewing pattern from scratch, a paper with a printed grid or dots, such as dotted or alphanumeric pattern paper, is a popular choice, because it makes straight lines, right angles and measurements easier. Plain kraft or butcher paper is a budget-friendly alternative. Once the draft is finished, many sewists copy it onto heavier oak tag or manila so the pattern can be reused for years.

What is drafting paper?

“Drafting paper” is a general term for paper used to draw patterns from measurements rather than copying an existing one. You may also see it sold as:

• Pattern paper or pattern making paper
• Dotted pattern paper, dot paper or alphanumeric paper
• Gridded or cross-marked paper
• Kraft paper, butcher paper or brown craft paper
• Oak tag or manila pattern paper for heavier-duty work

Technical drafting vellum and tracing paper exist too, but sewing suppliers usually sell the products above. For a wider comparison that includes tracing options, see our article on the best pattern making paper.

What to look for

• A printed grid or dots. Regular marks, often spaced about an inch apart, help you keep lines parallel and square, and make grading and alterations easier.
• Enough width. A wide roll lets you draft larger pieces such as skirts or coat panels without taping sheets together.
• Reasonable weight. Paper that is too thin may tear when erased or taped, while very stiff paper can be harder to fold and handle.
• A surface that takes pencil and eraser. You will mark, correct and redraw.
• Some translucency, if you also trace. Many gridded tracing papers let you see an underlying pattern, which saves a step.

Best options for drafting from scratch

• Dotted or gridded paper. The usual first choice for original drafting. The grid guides squaring up, and numbers or letters help with measurement. Look for a paper that stays flat and does not curl.
• Kraft or butcher paper. Sturdy, affordable and available in wide rolls. It is opaque, so it is better for drafting than for tracing. It works well for slash-and-spread and large pieces.
• Swedish tracing paper. Semi-translucent and strong. It is helpful if you want to trace a block, make a fit test or sew a quick mock-up. It is usually more costly than basic paper.
• Tracing paper rolls. Good for copying and layering, and workable for light drafting.
• Oak tag or manila. Heavy and durable. Rather than drafting on it initially, many people transfer a finished draft to it as a master block or sloper.

Moving from draft to permanent pattern

Drafts get messy with erasures and corrections. A common approach is:

1. Draft on gridded or kraft paper.
2. Trace or copy the clean lines onto tracing paper or Swedish tracing paper, and make a test garment.
3. Fix any issues, then transfer the final shapes to oak tag or manila.
4. Label, punch a hole for hanging, and store.

Drafting basics, step by step

1. Take measurements carefully, and write them down with the date.
2. Rule a baseline and square lines off it using the grid or a set square.
3. Draw the basic shape of the piece from your measurements.
4. Add curves such as armholes, necklines or waistlines using a curve ruler or French curve.
5. Mark grainlines, notches and darts.
6. Add seam allowance if your pattern needs it, usually as a separate step so you can keep a clean stitching line.
7. Check seam lengths where pieces join to be sure they match.
8. Make a mock-up in inexpensive fabric or a sewable pattern paper before cutting your final cloth.

Approaches differ between teachers and systems, so follow a drafting method that suits your project and learn it step by step.

Tools that go with drafting paper

• Long ruler or pattern master, and a set square
• French curve and hip curve
• Sharp pencils and a good eraser
• Fine pens in different colours for each alteration stage; test them first so they do not bleed through
• Paper scissors (kept separate from fabric shears)
• Weights, masking tape or pins to hold paper flat
• Tracing wheel and transfer paper for marking

Where to buy

Sewing and craft suppliers, fabric shops, art supply stores and office or sign suppliers often carry some form of drafting paper. Look for items sold as pattern paper, dotted pattern paper, Swedish tracing paper, kraft roll or manila pattern paper. Local newspaper offices and copy shops sometimes sell or give away end rolls, which suit rough drafting. Shipping can add to the cost of long rolls, so compare widths and roll lengths rather than only the sticker price.

Safety and care

• Craft knives and rotary cutters are very sharp. Use a cutting mat, cut away from your body, and cover blades after use.
• Keep markers and pens capped, and place scrap paper under your work so ink does not stain tables or fabric.
• If you use a hot iron on tracing or kitchen papers, check instructions first, protect the iron with a pressing cloth and keep fingers clear.
• Store rolls upright or lying flat to avoid dents, and keep patterns away from damp.

FAQ

What kind of paper to use for sewing patterns?

For tracing, use a translucent paper. For drafting, gridded or kraft paper works well. For patterns you reuse a lot, heavy oak tag or manila is common.

How do I draft my own sewing pattern?

Take accurate measurements, draw the shapes on gridded paper using a ruler and curves, add notches, grainlines and seam allowance, then test with a mock-up before final cutting.

What is drafting paper called?

You will often see it labelled as pattern paper, dotted paper, alphanumeric paper, kraft paper or tracing paper, depending on the style.

Where can I buy pattern drafting paper?

Fabric and sewing suppliers, art stores and some online shops sell it by the roll or by the metre. Check width, grid spacing and roll length before you buy.