Short answer
There is no single best pattern making paper. The right choice depends on what you are doing: tracing a commercial or PDF pattern, drafting something new, or building a durable master pattern. As a rough guide, translucent tracing papers suit tracing, dotted or gridded paper suits drafting, and sturdy kraft or manila (oak tag) suits patterns you plan to reuse for a long time.
First decide: tracing, drafting or archiving
Ask yourself what the paper has to do:
- Tracing. You need to see through the paper to copy lines from an existing pattern. Choose something translucent.
- Drafting. You are building shapes from measurements. A grid or dots helps you keep lines square, and the paper can be opaque.
- Archiving. You want a pattern that survives repeated use. Choose heavier, more durable paper.
Many sewists keep one paper for each job. For a deeper look at the drafting side, see our guide to drafting paper for sewing.
Kinds of pattern paper
- Pattern tissue. Thin, light and translucent. It is inexpensive and good for copying multi-size patterns, but tears easily and does not last.
- Tracing paper rolls. Lightweight and see-through, ideal for copying lines. Some art-supply rolls are sturdier than tissue and take pens well.
- Swedish tracing paper. A fabric-like, semi-translucent material that is strong, flexible and can be pinned or even sewn to test fit. It generally costs more than tissue but is reusable.
- Dotted or gridded pattern paper. Printed with a regular grid of dots, crosses or numbers. It helps with measuring, squaring up and adjusting, and is popular for drafting.
- Kraft or butcher paper. Opaque, affordable and available in wide rolls. It works for slash-and-spread adjustments and for drafting, but you cannot trace through it.
- Oak tag or manila pattern paper. Heavy, stiff paper that holds its shape. It is used for master patterns, blocks and pieces that will be traced around again and again.
- Medical exam table paper. A budget roll that many sewists use for tracing and mock-ups. It is lightweight and fairly translucent.
- Freezer paper and parchment paper. Kitchen papers sometimes used for templates and quick copies. Freezer paper can be ironed shiny side down onto fabric as a temporary stabiliser, and parchment is usable for small pieces, though it can be brittle.
- Plotter paper. Large-format paper used by copy shops to print full-size PDF patterns.
- Non-woven pattern interfacing. A sewable, drape-friendly alternative that is more durable than paper.
Comparison table
| Paper | See-through? | Durability | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Pattern tissue | Yes | Low | One-off copies, multi-size patterns |
| Tracing paper | Yes | Low to medium | Copying and altering |
| Swedish tracing paper | Yes | High | Reusable tracings, fit tests |
| Dotted paper | Often | Medium | Drafting and adjustments |
| Kraft or butcher paper | Slightly | Medium | Slash-and-spread, large drafts |
| Oak tag or manila | No | High | Master patterns and blocks |
| Medical exam paper | Yes | Low | Budget tracing and mock-ups |
| Freezer or parchment paper | Partly | Low to medium | Templates, quick fixes |
| Plotter paper | Often | Medium | Printed PDF patterns |
Can you print on tracing paper?
Often, yes, but check the paper and your printer first. Some tracing papers are labelled as suitable for inkjet or laser printers, while others may jam, curl or smear. Thin sheets can feed poorly, so try one sheet before a large batch. Alternatively, print your PDF pattern on standard paper and trace it onto your preferred pattern paper, or use a copy shop and plotter paper for full-size prints. Always print at 100% scale and check the test square.
How much does pattern paper cost?
Prices vary by type, width and where you buy. Pattern tissue, kraft rolls and newsprint end rolls are generally the budget end, while Swedish tracing paper and heavy manila are usually more expensive per metre. The best value often comes from buying the right paper for each task, rather than using an expensive paper for everything. Look at roll length and width, since a wider roll can save a lot of taping.
Marking tools and tips
- Use a tracing wheel with transfer paper to mark darts and notches.
- Test pens on a scrap first; some markers bleed through thin paper and stain the surface below. Ballpoint or fine liners are often safer.
- Label each piece with the pattern name, size, grainline and number of pieces to cut.
- Iron out creases from tissue or tracing paper on a low setting with a pressing cloth, and check the paper’s instructions first.
- Keep wide paper flat or rolled loosely to avoid creases.
Safety and storage
- Use sharp paper scissors rather than fabric shears on card-weight papers, and keep a separate pair for paper.
- Rotary cutters and craft knives are very sharp. Use a cutting mat, cut away from your body, and retract or cover blades when not in use.
- Irons, especially with freezer paper, get hot. Keep fingers clear and follow product instructions.
- Store finished patterns flat or hanging, away from damp and sunlight, in a labelled envelope or on a hook.
How to start drafting your own pattern
If you have never drafted one, begin with something simple like a basic skirt or rectangle-based garment. Take accurate measurements, draw them out on dotted or kraft paper, and make a test version in cheap fabric or Swedish tracing paper. Adjust, then copy your final shapes to sturdier paper.
FAQ
What are the kinds of pattern paper?
Common kinds include tissue, tracing paper, Swedish tracing paper, dotted or gridded paper, kraft or butcher paper, oak tag or manila, and plotter paper. Each suits a different job, from tracing to long-term storage.
Can you print on tracing paper?
Sometimes. Choose a tracing paper marked as printer-friendly and test a single sheet first. Otherwise, trace the printout by hand.
How much is pattern paper?
It depends on the type and amount. Basic tissue and kraft are usually cheaper, and specialist tracing papers and heavy manila usually cost more.
How do I draft my own sewing pattern?
Take clear measurements, draw the basic shapes on gridded or plain paper, add seam allowance and grainlines, then test with a mock-up before cutting final fabric. Our drafting paper guide goes into detail.